This cardigan is a soft and shabby one with a colorful style and a cozy look. I really enjoyed designing and making this project. This cardigan is very enjoyable to make and has the flexibility of choosing the colors and shapes you want. You can use the chart, printables and the explanations below to make your calculations and adjust your cardigan according to your taste. Here is everything you need to make this cardigan, and – have fun!

## What Did I Use?

Nako Spaghetti Effect yarn in 5 colors:

Green: 7796

Brown: 7511

Blue: 7598

Yellow: 75533

Orange: 7793

Kartopu Size 9 Needles

Yarn needle

Scissors

## How to take measurements and make calculations?

First, start by taking the measurement of your hipline. You can measure your hipline as a round shape and divide it by 2. I recommend adding at least 10 centimeters to that value; however if you want to make a cardigan looser, add more centimeters. Remember that we are not making a raglan cardigan and we will not make decreases for the arms. Therefore, consider the additional centimeters carefully so that the upper (shoulder) part of the cardigan would not be too long.

As an example, my hipline measurement was 100 centimeters and the back of a regular cardigan for my size should start with 50 centimeters. I added 10 more centimeters for a looser look and started my calculations with 60 centimeters.

After you make the measurements and decide the starting length, you will need to make a gauge. As I said earlier, I am working with Nako Spaghetti Effect with needles of size 9. Since I work with 60 centimeters and made a design of 5 squares (see the sketches) I divided 60 to 5 and I needed 12 centimeters, which corresponded to 9 stitches according to my gauge. Since I am working with bulky yarn, 9 rows were enough to make 12 centimeters to make perfect squares.

## Pattern

Now we have established the sizes of the squares, we can make the shapes.

As you can see from the chart, we have 7 Tetris shapes for the back of the cardigan. Each of them consists of squares we calculated previously. At this point, you have two choices: to make enough squares for each shape separately and form the shapes by seaming and to make the shapes altogether and seam them later. If you choose the first option, you will be doing a lot of seaming. For the second options you only need to seam the shapes together.

I made the shapes separately and then seamed them with a yarn needle and appropriate color which I chose. While making the shapes, I recommend you leave a long tail at the beginning and the ends of the shapes. This way, you can use them in the seaming process.

Although it is clear how the shapes are formed, I want to go into more detail just in case there is no point left in the dark. For example, for the yellow shape on the very right of the back, I started with 18 stitches. I knitted through the right side and purled through the left side for 9 rows. After I finished the 9^{th} row, I knitted the first 9 stitches and closed the last 9 stitches. I cut my yarn and started again with the 9 stitches left on the needle with purling through. I continued with the same knitting technique 8 more rows (the total count of rows after 9 stitches left on the needle is 9).

The brown shape in the middle of the backside is started with 18 stitches and knitted for 9 rows. When starting the 10^{th} row on the right side, I added 9 more stitches. This increase is made as if a fresh start is being made because otherwise the shape may be inclined to the left. After the increase, I knitted 9 more stitches and decreased 9 stitches in the same way I did the previous shape. I cut the yarn and start from the purl side of the 18 stitches left on the needle. I continued knitting up to the point where the total count of rows reached 9.

For the green shape on the left of the back is started with 9 stitches. After 9 rows, I increased 9 more and knitted on 9 more rows. Then, I decreased 9 stitches and knitted on 9 more rows.

The remaining shapes are made using these techniques similarly. Just do not forget your row and stitch count and make adjustments accordingly.

After you knitted and seamed all the 7 shapes on the back chart, you will have a square big piece that will be the back of the cardigan.

On the left front, we have 3 shapes and on the right front we have 4. After the back and fronts of the cardigan are completed, it’s time for the arms. At this point, I used a different technique than I normally do. I seamed the back and two fronts, leaving the arm places open. If you want to follow my way, you need to make your knitting and calculations precise; so that, the arms wouldn’t be too tight or too loose. My arm spaces were 15 stitches each.

After I seamed the back and fronts together, I used the side of the back and fronts to put back my needle and make stitches. First, I put my needle through 15 stitches on the space I left at the right backside. Then I knitted up to the length I desired. Afterward, I put my needle through the front right 15 stitches on the space. Then I knitted up to the same length with the back piece. Lastly, I seamed the sides of the arms. I repeated the same technique with the left arm, too – and, Voila!