Hi knitting enthusiasts. For the upcoming fall and winter, I have a very easy neckwarmer pattern for you. It takes about two hours to make but, it is perfect for gifts and keeping your neck warm. It has very easy to follow the pattern and can be made with one skein or leftover yarns. I will put two versions of it here. One is for those who want a bigger neckwarmer with more volume and warmth. The second one is smaller, more like an accessory which keeps you warm.
What Did I Use?
- Alize Superlana Maxi yarn in Jaspe Antrasit (800)
- Kartopu size 8 needles
- Yarn needle
- RS: Right Side
- WR: Wrong Side
- SSK: Slip Slip Knit
- k2tog: knit 2 stitches together
First, you need to measure the width you want around your neck. You need to make your measurement around your neck since we will begin knitting the neckwarmer as a flat rectangle and seam the two ends together at the end. After you decide the desired length, you need to make a gauge with your yarn. Then, calculate the stitches needed for the start of the neckwarmer.
I measured 60 centimeters and calculated my starting stitches as 70 for both neckwarmers. Since the difference is only with the length, I used the same 70 starting stitches for both of them.
Start with 70 stitches. We will use plain knitting for this pattern (knit the right sides and purl the wrong sides). Knit up to the point where the length reaches 14 centimeters. At this point, we will separate our project in three parts. On the last row, start from the first stitch and count to the 11th one. On the 11th stitch put a marker. Count 48 more and put another marker on the 49th stitch.
Here we will start decreases; however, we will continue knitting the first and last 11 stitches as they are. We are putting the markers as a warning.
- RS (1st decrease): Knit 11 (the last stitch will be the marked one), SSK (12th and 13th stitches), knit 44, SSK, (the first stitch will be the marked one) knit 11.
WS: Purl the whole row (68 stitches).
- RS (2nd decrease): Knit 11, SSK, knit 42, SSK, knit 11.
WS: Purl the whole row (66 stitches).
- RS (3rd decrease): Knit 11, SSK, knit 40, SSK, knit 11.
WS: Purl the whole row (64 stitches).
- RS (4th decrease): Knit 11, SSK, knit 38, SSK, knit 11.
WS: Purl the whole row (62 stitches).
- RS (5th decrease): Knit 11, SSK, knit 36, SSK, knit 11.
WS: Purl the whole row (60 stitches).
- RS (6th decrease): Knit 11, SSK, knit 34, SSK, knit 11.
WS: Purl the whole row (58 stitches).
After we have 11 + 36 + 11 stitches (58 in total), we will cut the first and last 11 stitches. On the right side, start with cutting 11 stitches and knit the remaining stitches. On the wrong side cut the first 11 stitches by purling and purl the remaining 36 stitches.
Start with 70 stitches. We are plain knitting again until the length reaches 12 centimeters. Now we start the decreases.
- RS (1st decrease): Knit 34, k2tog, knit 34.
WS: Purl the whole row (69 stitches).
- RS (2nd decrease): Knit 32, k2tog, knit 1, k2tog, knit 32.
WS: Purl the whole row (67 stitches).
- RS (3rd decrease): Knit 31, k2tog, knit 1, k2tog, knit 31.
WS: Purl the whole row (65 stitches).
Now that we completed the middle decreases, we will start the cutting part. On the right side cut 14 stitches, knit 17, k2tog, knit on until the end. On the wrong side, decrease the first 14 stitches by purling, then purl on the 36 stitches left on the needle.
Both have the same ending after we have 36 stitches remaining on the needle.
Now, we have 36 stitches on our needle. After this point, we will decrease one stitch on each right side with SSK. However, we need to be careful about one detail. We will make the decreases after knitting the first two stitches and when 4 stitches left at the end. This way, the edges will look better and smoother.
Keeping this detail in mind, we continue knitting and decreasing on the starts and the ends of each right side and purling on each wrong side. We continue until there are no stitches left, and our triangle is formed.
Now that the knitting part is over, let’s move on to the seaming. As you can see, we have rectangular and triangular parts. The rectangular part will be seamed on the short edges. After the seaming is finished, we will weave in the loose ends and enjoy our brand new neckwarmer.